This is also commonly known as
the upper engine mount, or is often listed in parts catalogs
as just "engine mount". It is good to know that there
are 2 types of engine mounts. This one, and a "dogbone"
style. The car (whether SOHC or DOHC) uses 1 TAM and 2
dogbones.
*NOTE* It is my understanding
that the '91 SOHC engines do not have this mount.
How to tell if
you need a new TAM:
You need a new TAM if:
-You see any cracks in the
rubber of the TAM, or have rubber separating from the rest
of the assembly
-You can fit your finger between
the rubber and the top metal of the TAM
Tools needed:
PB Blaster or other lubricant
(how badly, and even if you'll need this may vary)
15mm deep socket
Breaker bar (or ratchet &
cheater pipe)
Socket extension (6" probably
best)
Torque wrench (not 100%
necessary, but recommended)
Jack
Piece of wood or substitute
(cushion between jack & oil pan)
Parts needed:
New TAM (about $40 from local
parts store, or about $70 from the dealer)
New TAM bolts & nuts (may not be
needed, should be returnable - check first)
Preparation
1. Spray the nuts/bolts with
the PB Blaster or other lubricant and let sit. You could
do this the night before, or a few hours before you work.
It will make your life easier to prep the bolts this way.
2.
Park the car & make sure it's secure. You won't be
lifting the car off the ground, so if you're on level
ground, setting the emergency brake should be sufficient.
Removal
3. Lift the engine slightly
with the jack. Put a piece of wood or something else
between the jack and the oil pan. It's best to put the
lifting face of the jack close to one side of the oil pan so
the vertical side of the oil pan can hold things and help
prevent any denting of the pan. For now, you just need
the jack to hold the engine and take pressure off the mount,
so jack up just a bit after you start to see the engine or
car rise with the jack.
*NOTE* I have a fairly
long SUV jack, and was able to get it under the oil pan
while still being able to operate the jack. Smaller
jacks may not be able to do this, so you may have to lift
the vehicle some to get under the engine far enough.
4. Remove the nuts. There
are 5 nuts to remove. If things go nicely, you just
remove them. There is a chance, though, that the nuts
may be stuck to the bolts that go into the engine block.
If this happens, you are likely to unscrew the bolt from the
block. This isn't a big deal, just take your time and
don't damage the soft aluminum block. Use your
extension to get the nut on the back side of the TAM.
5 nuts:
5. Remove the old TAM. If
you're lucky, it will lift right off with no problems.
Otherwise, you may have to carefully pry it off. Also,
you may be able to loosen it by carefully raising or
lowering the engine slightly.
TAM removed. You can see that
one of my bolts came out of the block.
Installation
6. Put the new TAM in place.
If you have troubles getting it on, you'll likely need to
raise or lower the engine slightly so that everything lines
up. You may also have to gently pull the engine toward
the TAM location.
7. Put the nuts/bolts back
on. Start them with your fingers, ESPECIALLY if you have
to screw bolts back in. You do not want to
cross-thread the bolt into the aluminum block and damage the
block! Once you've got them in fairly far, tighten
them up. They do not need to be super-tight, but
fairly tight. If you have a torque wrench, tighten the
5 nuts to 37 ft/lbs.
8.
Remove the jack - you're done. I'd lower the jack
slowly, in case you screwed something up!
